You’re right, it’s May and only intermittently dry outside. But there are things you can do to your house at each brief, sunny interlude that will break up the otherwise long-winded task of prepping your house for its much-needed paint job.

And, when it rains, go back inside and read another chapter, watch a ballgame or another soap opera. Our formula for this job is to mix 50 percent fun with 50 percent elbow grease, both applied as the weather dictates. Here’s how to get started:

First things first

The logical path is to clean the roof of leaves and moss, and to kill the moss roots with a bleach and water (50/50) mix. Be careful not to accidentally spray the plants below. And just in case, hose them down thoroughly after the application.

Then clean the gutters and downspouts and fascia with soapy water and a soft brush, rinsing all thoroughly.

Next is scrubbing the walls, starting with the mildew side. Mix 1 quart bleach, 1/3 cup laundry detergent (Tide works well.) 2/3 cup Trisodium phosphate (TSP can be found in a paint or hardware store.) to 3 quarts very warm water. Scrub vigorously. Let sit for a few minutes and then rinse walls with clear water.

The use of a power washer is only recommended when used with a wide and relatively soft fan-tip. The damage you can do to your siding with this powerful machine will be seen forever.

To use a power washer properly, follow the grain of the wood siding, up and down for shingles, side-to-side on bevel siding. Keep the sprayer moving and maintain enough distance from the siding so that the wood is not damaged. Also, stay away from windows, doors and any type of vents.

Be sure to set out plastic tarps to catch the chips. (Many homes still have layers of toxic lead-based paint on them. It’s important to scour it off with care – especially if you have young children or pets.)

Now the house has to sit and dry out for a week, but there is still plenty you can do.

Scrape all remaining blistered and cracked paint until it can no longer be scraped off.

Feather sanding the edges of the remaining paint can be done after the walls have completely dried. A stiff wire brushing of the remaining painted surfaces will give your new paint the best chance to adhere. All glossy surfaces must be lightly sanded to a dull finish for new paint to stick.

As soon as you’re done with this type of prep, and have a bone-dry wall surface, spot prime all the bare wood surfaces with a good quality primer designed for the siding material you are covering. Be aware of the humidity and temperature ranges the manufacturer recommends on the can and avoid painting in the direct sun.

After the primer is dry, you're ready to caulk all the cracks and crevasses for appearance sake, as well as for weatherproofing. Choose a good quality, paintable, 35-year caulk.

A wet finger works well for smoothing any caulk line to perfection, keeping it in the crack and not an ugly smear or bulging mass. Seek perfection with this sticky stuff, it will greatly reward you in the finished product.

Once all caulk and primer are dry, you’re ready for a super paint job. If you apply your paint with a sprayer be sure to immediately back-brush the sprayed surfaces, catching the drips, evening-out the thick and thin spots and maximizing the bond of the paint to the siding.

Again, painting in the direct sun can cause the new paint to "skin-over," ending up as a blister.

Therefore, we recommend starting on a dry, warm morning with the west wall. As the sun goes overhead, do the north wall, then the east wall and finally the south wall when the sun is in the west. That way the walls are warm to the touch, but not hot, and you’re always in the shade of the house.

Watch out, painting too late in the day, with our summer afternoon fog, can result in trapped moisture behind the paint. The next sunny day, the heated moisture will turn your hard work into a paint blister nightmare.

Besides, starting early and ending early can mean more time to do something fun.

When prepping and painting windows and doors, pretend you're living aboard a boat and that these two types of openings are all there is between you and the stormy seas.

Both must be well sealed with quality caulking, well glazed with supple glazing compounds and well painted to protect the sealant from the rains as well as the ultraviolet (UV) light of the sun.

If you are not adept with glazing putty, ask your local glass company for tips and a maybe a demonstration, or just hire one to do the job. It will be money well spent and last for years.

What about the windowsills and trim? The bottom of the window, called the "sill," is where all the rain running down your windows ends up. Notice it is sloped for water run-off and projects beyond the siding so the water will drip straight to the ground.

The condition of these sills is very important. When left unpainted, the sun and rain will make them crack and absorb water rather than shed it away.

Gradually, the water will dry rot the wood, find its way into the house framing, sheathing, interior wall surfaces and you. The bugs will feast and the seeping molds and powdery mildews will take over the wall.

Major damage and major expense...all for the lack of timely paint.

One test we use is the stab-test. Using a sharp awl, knife or skinny screwdriver, poke and probe the sill and especially the corners where the dirt tends to accumulate. If your sills are soft and rotted you may want to seek some expert help to rebuild the window. If the wood is sound, sand them smooth, prime liberally and two-coat paint them with the best trim paint you can afford.

Doors require the same initial scrutiny and timely care. If there are cracks, fill them with a wood putty, sand smooth, prime and double coat with good paint.

At the same time, check out the operation of the door. It should operate quietly, have no gaps for air to enter around or under it and the locks should work smoothly.

Painting your front door in a bright, snappy color lets everyone know where the entry is and can look very cheerful!

Dave Murnen and Pat Beaty are construction specialists at Aberdeen Neighborhood Housing Services, a non-profit organization committed to creating safe and affordable housing for all residents of Grays Harbor County. Do you have questions about home repair, remodeling or becoming a homeowner? Call us at 533-7828, write us at P.O. Box 407, or visit us at 710 E. Market St. in Aberdeen.